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TLDR: Why do so many routers support >1Gbit/s on their WiFi while only having 1Gbit/s ethernet interfaces? So, I've been upgrading parts of my home setup and have a router (without AP) that has 2.5G interfaces. My PC also has a 2.5G interface, but that only going to the router is kinda useless (the ISP offers 1G). The place my PC is at is also a good position for an AP. So, I went looking for a cheap second hand wifi router and stumbled upon quite a few that were boasting >1G connection speeds, not only AX but also AC. Now I know this is often a combined theoretical Max, but still a lot offer >1G for the single band. The vast majority of these routers, though, have 1G Ethernet ports. Putting that between my PC and router reduces that linkspeed and I can't actually reach over 1G for the WiFi devices as well. Why would you sell a product like that. Undoubtedly those radio's were more expensive but their in a package that can't fully utilize them. I can think of some reasons: marketing, radio's are mostly not fully utilized anyways, helps with latency, maybe? Does anyone know why it's done like this?
I'm looking to replace my old Netgear Nighthawk with a new router. Currently my house does have some dead zones which we make up for using a powerline. But the powerline isn't always stable and we have to switch wifi networks depending on where we are in the house. My question is, **is it better to get a mesh network or a standard router with either range extenders (ex: TP-Link OneMesh) or mesh features (ex: Asus AiMesh)?** I couldn't really find any article that listed the differences between mesh routers and standard routers with extendable features. They only compare mesh routers with standard routers. More info: Preferably, I would like to go with the standard router for the higher speeds and extra ports but I'm afraid that won't solve our dead zone issues. Also, buying two or three standard routers is way more expensive than a mesh network with multiple satellites. Speed and signal strength are important for me since both I and my brother WFH and do online gaming. Unfortunately, the home office (where the router is) and bedrooms (where we game and where my brother works) are on opposite sides of the house. Another note is that when the garage opens, my brother loses signal in his room for some reason. I haven't experienced that despite being closer to the garage than him
Hello, For some context I am moving into my first home. I am looking for a network solution to use and will last a long time. My original idea was just getting a new wifi 7 router maybe a gaming one since gaming is my passion but I got talking to my friend and he has a [ubiquity Dream Machine ](https://store.ui.com/us/en/pro/category/all-unifi-cloud-gateways/products/udm-pro) and talks really highly about it and I would love this/something similar to it. He showed me all the features it does and the layout of the UI etc. Being able to add security cameras to it and such is something I very much so want a long with a lot of the other things it can do. I am good with technology I am a software engineer and I currently have things such as netalertX and adguard home running on a mesh network so I can and would be willing to set things up. Is this the only only type of device that does this kind of thing or are there others? Any suggestions or alternatives I like to look at options before buying. Side note budget is relatively high aka I am willing and unless given alternatives I like more going to be going with the dream machine and the other required items from them. Thanks :)
I just fought getting a 3rd party range extender working and wanted to share what I learned. Equipment: Macard re1200 range extender and Gigaspire blast u4 GS2028E router After setup of the Macard extender, all 3 lights were solid green meaning that it connected and authenticated to the router. However, devices connected (wirelessly) to the macard could not access the internet. What I found that fixed it was I had to enable the "ARP spoofing" security flag in the Gigaspire's settings. The initial user ID and password are printed on the label on the back of the router so use that to log in.
I created a whitelist access profile. That ensures that the whole WAN is blocked except what is exceptionally whitelisted. I started with an empty whitelist. The LAN is rightfully accessible and the WAN is rightfully inaccessible. The router does not use DSL. Instead, it uses a USB mobile broadband LTE modem. The modem has its own website which gives SMS capability. The modem is technically upstream to the router, so it is blocked when the WAN blocking profile is enabled. I want to whitelist the modem so that when I am blocking WAN access I can still reach the web UI of the modem and monitor SMS msgs. Fritzbox is designed so that all attempts to directly access an IP is blocked if whitelisting is in play. IP addresses cannot be whitelisted, only URLs using FQDNs. So I did “nslookup 10.10.50.8” to get the hostname of the modem. Then I whitelisted the hostname. That does not work. The modem is still blocked.
Was looking into this today and this video came up, so thought I'd share Summary: > This video is about securing Cloudflare tunnels with VLANs and an internal firewall. > > The speaker, Jim, argues that while Cloudflare tunnels are a great technology, they can introduce security risks because all the traffic that comes into your network is visible to Cloudflare. To mitigate these risks, Jim suggests segmenting your internal network and adding extra layers of security. > > Here are the key steps to secure Cloudflare tunnels with VLANs and an internal firewall according to Jim: > > * Create a Mac VLAN for the Cloudflare tunnel. This will isolate the traffic coming from the tunnel from the rest of your network. > * Add an internal firewall rule to allow traffic only from the Mac VLAN to the specific port where your service is running. This will restrict the Cloudflare tunnel's access to only the resources it needs. > * Configure your firewall to perform IDS/IPS on the traffic coming from the Cloudflare tunnel. This will help to identify and block malicious traffic. > By following these steps, you can add extra layers of security to your network and reduce the risk of a breach even if your Cloudflare tunnel is compromised. > > Jim also mentions that a next-generation firewall can be used for additional security benefits. This type of firewall can perform deeper inspections of traffic and provide better protection against sophisticated attacks. > Overall, the video provides a good overview of the security risks associated with Cloudflare tunnels and how to mitigate those risks using VLANs and an internal firewall.
Title. I have my CCST (yes, I should've gotten the CCNA, working on it. My school paid for the voucher) and CompTIA A+. I'm trying to make a presentable resume for networking internships but I'm hearing conflicting advice about whether I should have a github portfolio or not. I host a web server that links to a blog. Some things on that blog include GNS3 labs, packet tracer activities I've created, Bash scripts for simple Linux admin tasks etc. I just have a link to this static website. Why would recruiters open up my github and care about my packet tracer files or daily cron job script for RAID backups? I'm not interested in programming outside of network automation. I've used netmiko before with GNS3 and it's incredible, but I don't see why (or how) I would put those netmiko scripts on github.
cross-posted from: https://lazysoci.al/post/13500180 > I have the Pi-Hole acting as the DHCP server and DNS server too and this works fine for 23 hours and then it flops and I don't understand why. > > Basically after 24 hours, all devices just disconnect from the router and when I try and reconnect them, they say they're unable to get an IP address. > > But before they drop connection, they all report the DNS server as the Pi-Hole. > > If I change my DHCP to static and connect to my router, I see that the Pi-Hole is still connected with its static IP just fine. > > If I factory reset the router and then add the same SSID and password, the Pi-Hole automatically reconnects and then all devices can reconnect again, so I'm unsure what the issue is. > > Can someone break this down. I feel stupid for not understanding what's happening here.
Hopefully I am in the right community. So I have a router, a TP Link Archer AX53, nice router. I wanted to improve the signal in my room and bought a TP link Deco X10. So CAT 6 cable to my room, connect my router and deco. I thought this might just be a quick tick to add the deco as a mesh device and boom problem sorted. Now I know this is not a simple WiFi 6 mesh setup, seems like the deco and archer modem does not work together, they make their individual network points. Does anyone know a solution or am I stuck with two networks. Not end of the world but would have been nice if it can be one mesh network
a.aliexpress.com
I didn't even know cat 8 cabling was a thing.
Thought this was interesting. Maybe it can help someone who's in a similar position to myself and looking at their options
Everyone was kind enough to ram my brain chock full of knowledge about switches and I came away feeling like I can explain it to other people. (please don't test me on this, I'll fail) But now I'm trying to figure out how I want my network to look and so it's best I ask the people smarter than me that actually understand what I'm trying to do. My house is an average sized, end of terrace in a big city and so while I can get decent Internet speeds, I get lots of WiFi signal congestion with neighbours, buildings, etc. In my present router, which I really need to replace, I have my NAS and cable box plugged in via Ethernet, everything else is connected via WiFi. That's a bunch of phones, a couple laptops, and a couple Raspberry Pi's (including my one with all my home services, like Home Assistant and my Pi-Hole). The design I'm cooking up, is that my NAS would be on a virtual LAN with no direct access to the Internet, my Raspberry Pis would have Internet access. I don't need to worry about my smart home devices having Internet access since they're all Zigbee devices. But I plan to switch my cable box to an IPTV box and I'm also wanting to get a video doorbell and security camera for the garden, so that's at least three virtual local area networks. Four if I add a guest network. My questions are really simple ones and you're probably gonna laugh at how stupid they are… can I do this all with a single switch? Do I need a separate access points for each VLAN or can I have multiple vLANs on a single AP? How many ports should I be looking at on my switch? Would four be enough for my set-up? Also managed is best right?
Okay, I've been watching lots of YouTube videos about switches and I've just made myself more confused. Managed versus unmanaged seems to be having a GUI versus not having a GUI, but why would anyone want a GUI on a switch? Shouldn't your router do that? Also, a switch is like a tube station for local traffic, essentially an extension lead, so why do some have fans?
There are apparently only two documented ways to reverse tether an Android via USB to a linux host: * [openVPN method](http://salutepc.altervista.org/usb-reverse-tethering-no-root-no-adb-android-all-versions-linux-quick-mode.html) * [Gnirehtet](https://www.ubuntubuzz.com/2019/09/android-reverse-tethering-with-ubuntu-1804.html) ***OpenVPN dead*** I really wanted the #openVPN method to work because I’m a fan of reducing special-purpose installations and using Swiss army knives of sorts. In principle we might expect openVPN to be well maintained well into the future. But openVPN turns out to be a shit show in this niche context. Features have been dropped from the Android version. ***Gnirehtet dying*** Gnirehtet works but it’s falling out of maintenance. ~~It’s also unclear if~~ #Gnirehtet really works without root. There is mixed info: * Ade Malsasa Akbar from Ubuntubuzz [claims](https://www.ubuntubuzz.com/2019/09/android-reverse-tethering-with-ubuntu-1804.html) root is ***not*** needed (and devs [agree](https://github.com/Genymobile/gnirehtet)). * OSradar [claims](http://web.archive.org/web/20230531011502/https://www.osradar.com/reverse-tether-from-linux-to-android/) root ***is*** needed. (edit: they are mistaken) If anyone has managed to reverse tether an unrooted Android over USB to a linux host using free software, please chime in. Thanks! update on Gnirehtet --- Gnirehtet indeed works without root. But some apps (like VOIP apps) fail to detect an internet connection and refuse to communicate. #askFedi
Let me explain my current setup so that I can explain the problem... For redundancy, I have two internet providers at home. One of them is DSL and the router is located at the entrance hall. The other one is cable and the connection point (and therefore the modem/router) is at the living room. My workstation is in another room on the opposite end of the apartment. To connect all that, I bought a set of powerline adapters from TP-Link, [one with 3 ports and WI-FI extender](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TP-Link-Powerline-Adapter-TL-WPA8631P-Streaming/dp/B08FX98B59) and [two with 3-ports](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TP-Link-TL-PA8030P-KIT-Powerline-1300Mbps/dp/B00SWI2UK0/) alongside with a [load balancer multi-wan router, with 5 ports](https://www.amazon.de/-/en/TL-R470T/dp/B004UC9V8Q) also from TP-Link. Right now, I have one the multi-wan router connected to one powerline adapter (one port for each wan), another adapter at the entrance hall connected to the LAN of the DSL router, and the adapter with Wi-FI extender connected to the Cable router. The wired part works. My workstation connects to the router and I get an IP from it. The router can connect with both WANs and my connection seems stable. My problem is in the wireless part. From my phone, it says it is connected but it can not resolve any external connection. At first I thought the wi-fi was getting confused with the different DHCP servers, but even after disabling DHCP on DSL/Cable routers (not using it anyway because I am connecting through the "multi-wan" router, right?) the connection is still not going through. I can access the management part of the Wi-FI extender and it seems to be on the same subnet as the multi-wan router, so I *guess* it can connect to it, but the actual connection outside simply doesn't happen. Is this setup so out of ordinary? Should I just forget about the wi-fi extender and add a "real" access point in the living room? I guess I could accept that the mobile devices need to be aware of the separate WAN routers, but it would be a lot nicer if they could all connect transparently...
I’m having to use a 4g router (from Three in the UK), as the wired internet is rubbish. I’d like suggestions for a 3rd party router 4&5G compatible for future proofing. It needs to support bridge mode (to avoid having to double NAT) and ideally support IPv6 as three support that as well. I don’t need WiFi. Any suggestions welcome & thanks.
After years with Powerline and Wifi, i'm slowly swapping things to MOCA as i have a fairly new house that has good coax to every room. At the moment i have a simple setup with point to point, but run a diplexer because I have a HDHomerun right next to where the master GoCoax Box is - so filter off the TV Signals. I want to add a third Moca (GoCoax) box I have attached an image of my current setup What is the easiest way to add in another moca box? Is there a Splitter that is easily avalible in the uk that i can put in the loft that does the splitting as well as the frequency seperation and leaves free ports for future additions?? Or do i just need to stack a splitter with a diplexers? Cheers Guys https://preview.redd.it/g6drutpdm34c1.png?width=1301&format=png&auto=webp&s=66b91a751203fbe959923af0897c739c7bef954f [Diplexers](https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00L4D25B4) [GoCoax Boxes](https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08XP8MMFG)
My friends live on a small farm. Their water supply is from an artesian well. When the temperature drops below freezing, they have to turn on a heat lamp to keep the pump and pipes from freezing. This is set up in an open front shed about 75 feet from the house. I looked at setting up a wifi plug on the heat lamp, controlled via Alexa. (They've built a box to enclose the pump) However, their Wifi does not extend that far. They are using these AT&T branded Netgear pucks, Model MR6500, that barely reach halfway across the house. They are switching to Starlink in a week or so. (I know nothing of Starlink beyond it's using satellites) How can I get this to work for them? Cheaply, if possible.
Hi guys, I'm setting up a network with a series of groups of computer, tag printer and laser cutting machine for a home project. I need these groups to be easily replaceable/swappable, and for that I'm planning on setting up all them with fixed IPs behind a router for each group, so one computer can be replaced for another without having to configure IPs all again. Each router would be connected via WAN port to the ISP's router with their own IP. Communication with both the printer and the laser cutter is done via fixed IP. Will this work? What possible issues could I have, or what should I do to prevent them? https://preview.redd.it/rwg9y540954c1.png?width=2771&format=png&auto=webp&s=5baf254d8ebd73275c2feb117211fc4e986a22ed
I am trying to connect my PS4 with a lan cable wired through the wall to a network switch. The connection test on the PS4 fails to recognize an IP, yet the network switch gives me the flickering green light, and the cable tester from the two ends says the cable is fine. Internet on the other devices connected to the switch is fine, yet this cable, with other devices too, has issues.
My wife and I are building a home and as I am a gamer and my wife works from home, having fast and reliable internet is huge for us. We are both wanting to be wired into the internet. I am not the most tech savvy when it comes to home networking. I am trying to think what I need in the office for outlet wise to have the modem and router in there so we can connect via cable easily. I was thinking of asking for a coax cable into the room to connect the modem to it. What are your thoughts on one coax cable for that room? Should I be asking for different outlets in the room or in other places? What other things should I be considering in my house? Any or all help will be appreciated! Thanks!
Using [speedtest.net](https://speedtest.net), with ethernet, I get a download speed of 530 Mbps and a ping of 12 ms. On WiFi, I get a download speed of 495 Mbps but with 66 ms of latency. Pinging my router directly over WiFi results in a latency of <1 ms and pinging another wireless device on the same network results in a latency of 2 ms. So, it seems that the additional latency of using WiFi instead of ethernet should be negligible instead of a difference of >60 ms. What could be causing this?
Hey everyone, I'm looking at getting a new (to us) home cabled up, and in the past I've always designed with the following principles (ignoring WiFi APs within this scope): \- Single patch panel near comms cabinet \- Wall port per device + additional ports for future proofing Essential, a star topology - the patch panel connects to a single switch with no other switching. However, I'm wondering if that's maybe overdoing it a tad, given that I'm in Australia where 100Mbps internet is considered top of the line\*, and the vast majority of traffic is device->internet, with very little intranet traffic beyond occasional file/print transfers or streaming from a media server. So to that end, I'm considering a revised tree style topology with the following design principles: \- Single patch panel near comms cabinet \- Wall port *per room*, with 4 and 8 port unmanaged switches branching to devices In real life, that's going to mean the following clusters each hanging off an unmanaged switch: \- Home office with 3-4 computers and a MFD \- TV/Media devices (gaming consoles, Android TV box, AV receiver) \- 2-3 gaming PCs So obviously each unmanaged switch becomes an additional point-of-failure, but a tolerable one. In terms of throughput, I'm unlikely to touch the sides (as they say), and the 100Mbps WAN connection is a far narrower bottleneck than theoretical limit of 4-5 devices sharing a single 1Gb cable back to the "root" switch - but is there any gotchas that I'm not considering, like latency, additional overhead per switch, or future proofing for PoE+ (currently I have WiFI APs and LED Panels that will all be ceiling mounted and cabled per device)? Any advice/suggestions would be appreciated!
Hi all, I’m looking to upgrade my home router that is beginning to struggle with the amount of network devices on the network. Namely with network dropouts and slowdowns. Current config: ISP: cable modem with 350mbps download and 10mbps upload. (Hoping to have 1.5gbps fibre as an option in the near future) Current router: first generation Netgear Orbi gen 1 with 1 satellite running upstairs. Also has two small 5 port unmanaged switches (100/1000) for wired connections. There is also another two small 5 port and 8 port unmanaged switches running to my main router (100/1000) running a smart tv, several computers, a server, Phillips hue hub, etc. Wireless I have dozens of devices between iDevices, game consoles, tv, laptops, etc. in total I have around 55 devices connected at any given time. There is also an access point (old Asus router working in AP mode) used for all my smart bulbs/switches that is connected to one of my unmanaged switches connected to the main router. What should I be running on my network? I figure I’ll need something for around 80 devices give or take and am looking for something a bit future proof. I’ll be upgrading to fibre someday; and internally I’ll want at least 2.5gb. Is there a router that can handle this config or should I be looking at something a bit more commercial/industrial? And if so, what? Thanks,
I have 2 new GoCoax MA2500D MOCA adapters with 2.5GBE switches, cat 6 cable and 2 machines running RTL8125b 2.5GBE network cards. The problem I'm having is that transfers to the file server write at close to 210MB/s (not great, but good enough) but the read speed is terrible at only 50MB/s. I have turned off EEE on both machines, MA2500D updated to latest firmware. The MOCA splitters in use are wideband and explicitly MOCA compatible. One holland 3-way moca splitter with a POE filter outside the house, one "sunburst" moca 2.0 compatible indoors. I don't expect mega speeds when reading and writing are occurring at the same time, but what could the issue be? Here's what I tried so far. - LOOOONG ethernet cable wiring both machines together = full 2.5gbps speed in both directions. - LOOOONG ethernet switch cable both 2.5GB switches together = full 2.5gbps speed in both direcitons - Both MOCA adapters plugged directly into each machine, same problem. - I powered off my cable modem, same problem.
First, my apologies if this has been answered before, I couldn't find an answer. This is my first time dealing with a smart plug, and I looked online how to set up my access point router years ago (set it and forget it kind of thing.) But I'm not entirely incompetent if someone could simply point me in the right direction. I recently purchased a smart plug (Kasa EP10) that I want to hook up to an outlet in my basement. The smart plug is closer to my main Verizon router than the access point router (Linksys N600) in my office. Both the Verizon router and access point are on the main floor above the basement. I currently have my access point router setup with a different SSID (name) and password. It's connected with an ethernet cable (technically with a unmanaged switch in between) to the main Verizon router. Not a large house, but there are enough structural barriers where I need an access point on the other end of the house to get any Wi-Fi. Is there a way to still command the smart plug while my phone/app is connected to the access point, without having to change the SSID/etc on the access point router to match the main router? Or should I just bite the bullet and change my access point to have the same log in? Most Wi-Fi devices connected to both the main router and the access point are 5Ghz, rather than the 2.4Ghz that the smart plug needs, if that makes any difference. I have a month before I need to set everything up, I'm just trying to preplan (overthinking everything.) Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Please explain to me like if im 7, I'm really not good at this Our wifi and Ethernet is installed on 2nd floor And when I'm in the basement the wifi barely works and keeps disconnecting often, unless if i stay on a specific place of the basement and rven though the internet speed is like 50% slower in there I'm looking for the best way share the internet to the basement without losing a significant amount of internet speed Preferably without using cables to to connect from 2nd floor to the basement because that will be troublesome Thank you very much
Hi All, I'm setting up a moca network in my house and have a quick question. We've got cable Internet coming into the corner of our house in the basement. Can I run an Ethernet cable out of our modem, into a switch (instead of a router), then a moca adapter into our coax hub and additional moca adapters with routers wherever we need them? Obviously one router will need to be in router mode with the others in access point mode. The main thing I'm wondering is if the initial moca adapter can be coming out of a switch rather than a router. I only ask because we have like a $300 router where the cable Internet is coming in but it's in a far corner of the house so I'd rather utilize the router elsewhere. Hopefully that make sense haha. We just upgraded to gigabit so I'm trying to make sure none of the links in our network chain are limiting speeds. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
Hello, I recently got the Wavlink AX3000 mesh router to replace my service provided router so that I can set my own preferred DNS server (running Pihole on my Rasberry Pi). Since hooking up this router I've been seeing anywhere from 6-12 DNS queries per minute to [bing.com](https://bing.com) of A and AAAA type. I dont use bing and the IP indicates that the requests are coming from the router itself. I even setup the Pi as my DHCP server to be sure, and all the bing requests still come from the router's IP. I have no IoT devices. Has anyone else ever seen this? Could this be a result of using a mesh router as a normal router? I also blacklisted any request with bing in the domain and have seen no drop in performance. Its only been 24 hrs and there's been over 7000 bing queries blocked.
I'm currently using Advanced IP Scanner but I don't think there's a way for it to show which devices are hogging the most internet. Is there better free software for this?
Looking for a reliable router and modem that will take full advantage of a 500 Mbps plan. Need to support up to 2 people who work from home, streaming, and online gaming (PS5) within 700 sq ft. If a 500 Mbps plan is overkill for this, let me know. Current setup is a DOCSIS 3.1 modem and the TP-Link Archer A20 router. Over the past month and a half ive been experiencing a lot of packet loss and latency issues while playing online (connected via ethernet) and working from home (Wireless). While there are currently 3 people in the same place for now, I haven't had any problems for over a year until recently. I've also had technicians come out twice and they said everything was fine. Does this set up already take full advantage of a 500 mbps plan or do I need to upgrade equipment? Should I wait to see how things go minus one user? Side question - does every router only have LAN ports that output only up to 1 Gigabit or am I reading these descriptions wrong? Thanks for any advice. Edit: I'd like to keep my budget at around $300 for both modem and router if possible.
I am attempting to replace a broken router for my home network, and in doing so I am likely going to try and build my own router (but not necessarily). I am looking to future proof the new router for multi gigabit fiber optic ISP speeds while I am at it, and generally future proof the router for any other purposes. The problem there is that there aren't any really up to date guides I've found taking that specific goal into account when building a router and while I have built my own desktops before, I certainly don't want to spend thousands of dollars on a desktop build just to turn it into a much lower intensity-usage device like a router and I am not exactly sure what the floor or ceiling targets for specs here are to future proof it to the specifications I am wanting. So, a couple of specifications here: 1: Does a router even use a GPU for any reason, even if you do absolutely unrealistic stuff on it like run a Minecraft server on it? I have scoured the internet for any reason at all no matter how farfetched and there just doesn't seem to be a need to even use a GPU for a router. 2: I am not planning to have an integrated WAP in the router like most store bought routers. I want this to purely be a wired router (the only wirelessly connected devices in the *entire house* are our smartphones and sometimes the Nintendo Switch (it is wired when docked), absolutely everything else is hardwired down to even the printer), the plan is to use the old router as a standalone WAP (I know that part of the router works) and just wait until we can get a dedicated WAP from somewhere like Best Buy. 3: Showing my ignorance here, is having a wired router and giving it wireless capability with a standalone WAP even a good idea? There is some intensive, latency sensitive gaming done every so often wirelessly, and I don't want to cause any additional latency if having the WAN connected separately from the router causes that. If it's not a good idea, I want to be able to upgrade our router to Wi-Fi 7 when it becomes available, having a discrete WAP that can be upgraded as new Wi-Fi standards emerge was one reasoning for doing it that way (For reference, our end goal when fiber becomes available for installation is to have less than 5 ms of ping, ideally 3 ms or less, or to have absolute possible minimization of ping across the network, so the build of our household network being ping-minimal is important) 4: Based on research, I would like to figure out how to build a device that has at least 8gb of RAM, potentially more. The snag is I have no idea what to look for in a CPU with a router (this is always my weakness when building new tech), what's overkill and what's underkill, what do I even want to look for? 5: Back a little bit to point 3, should I simply have 2 ethernet ports and connect the WAP via an external ethernet switch and be fine, or should I have more than 2 ethernet ports on the router to wire the WAP directly to the router's ports for minimal ping? 6: How much SSD space would be prime to have in a router? 7: I am planning on running a local DNS server in the home in order to eliminate DNS lag. Is it possible to run a DNS server directly in the router, or do I need a separate built device for a DNS? On a similar note, would running something like a Minecraft Java server be feasible on a router or should I build a separate device to act as a server down the road? If possible, I'd like to be able to run this sort of thing on the router. If not, I'd still like to maximize control over the network as we had a very cheap router that did not allow any advanced control options. 8: Down the road I am wanting to segregate all game consoles into a DMZ, would I need an entirely separate router to do that or does custom router software allow a DMZ zone to put things like multiple game consoles outside of your firewall? Currently we have our primary Nintendo Switch in the DMZ, but down the road we would like to put the other game consoles in the DMZ as well, without having to switch between which one is in the DMZ at a time. 8.5: If anyone asks, we do a lot of 4K streaming and a lot of super latency sensitive gaming, sometimes multiple devices at once running things like Street Fighter online where every millisecond of lag counts, if you want to know what our load looks like for most of the day when we aren't doing something super intensive like a massive file download. 9: Finally, would it even be worth building one or should I just get a prebuilt but slightly custom router somewhere like Seeed Studio or get a Raspberry Pi that meets these specifications? Thanks in advance to everyone here, this is new territory for me so sorry if I forgot to ask or specify anything important.
Hi I’m sort of tech savvy but I would still label myself a beginner. I was annoyed at my internet speeds being low so I upgraded my speeds to gigabit then I realized that I needed to upgrade my router/ modem combo I have a Netgear AC1900. My question is I know I need to upgrade my hardware to get the best speeds I can but should I get a combo modem/router or separate router & modem. What would you suggest for a budget of about $250-$300. I’m in a 1bed apartment that’s about 900sqft. I do gaming and streaming & it’s about 12 devices connected. Also I have xfinity gigabit internet. Thanks for your help.
I have a LAN port upstairs in the kitchen. I have scoured the house for a second port. No luck. I cannot find an external LAN box outside anywhere. I live downstairs and have very poor wifi. Is there an easy way to determine if there is in fact a second port downstairs? I would like to have the router downstairs, as my father doesn't use the internet for much and is uninterested in the fact that the connection is weak everywhere else in the house. How do I determine if there is a second port? I would like to avoid drilling holes in walls to run cable.
My roomate doesn’t pay his share of wifi bill so we decided to pause all his devices yet he still gets wifi, I checked and his devices are connected to something called tp link fcc8, is this some vpn kinda thing to get around the wifi block or a solo network he is paying for? Thanks all
I watched [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8UZFpCQeXnM) short video about the netstat command and found the topic very interesting. Where can I find more noob-friendly information about the theory of IP tables? Right now I'm interested to learn more within the context of Windows instead of Linux (so that I can follow along). I'm very interested to learn how programs/services listen/operate in relation to firewalls and also antivirus software like malwarebytes and windows defender. (For example I thought that I had to specifically open a port in my router for a program to use, but when I use netstat I see that there are tons of programs/services running that are using all kinds of ports.) The reason that I am asking here is because I would rather someone point me in the right direction than try to over-Google it and find too much irrelevant information. As a cytologist I could Google various cancer cells and be able to sort through everything that I see to prioritize relevant information, but that's because I'm a professional in the field. I have no such experience with networking.
My current internet setup is a bit different because I live above a detached garage. I use Ethernet Over Coax, as coax was already ran. 95% of the time, it's set up as shown in the image, under 'Current'. However, sometimes when me and my friend want to play a game that I have to run a server for (Minecraft, Arma, etc), I have to unplug the MoCA and PC from the router, and directly connect them, which allows me to access to main router/modem from the main house (I'm sure I could fix that, but last time I tried I couldn't get it to work, and I think it'll just be easier to take a hardware-route). After we are done with the server for the day, I then reconnect the router because I need the WiFi for other devices (phone, smart lights). That itself isn't that much of a bother to me, and I've been doing that for 2 years now. But... I built a second PC to help with streaming and creating game servers, just something to offload the work. We can say *PC A* is the gaming computer, while *PC B* is the PC hosting the server. *PC B* needs to be connected to the MoCA, but I also need the router to be connected to it as well for WiFi, and obviously PC A needs internet access as well (in the 'Idea' drawing, I have it connected to the Switch but I don't think it really matters, it could connect to the Router instead). ***My biggest question is; Will this work?*** I did some 10-minute googling and it seems like it should work, and I believe a Switch is what I need, but it's always better just to ask. Thanks! https://preview.redd.it/zzs1ail1c54c1.jpg?width=960&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26ad3eefb3d2f4f80e092a718b5e974425772355