Was it in "Ubik" that people had to pay a fee every time they wanted to use their domestic appliances or even open the door to their own house?

Not one in particular, just the first thing that came to mind since I use it a lot on linux. I even use NewPipe on android, didn't even remember it had an option to download

yt-dlp inside termux?

Baikal works wonders

Nah 85/90 degrees is perfect for the job. Much better and more uniform than a heatgun, let alone a hairdryer

Is that a motorola moto z2 play? I owned that phone and I used to disassemble it just like this!

Edit: saw in another comment that it's a z4. The camera did look strange for a z2 at a second glance

While I don't remember his name, I remember there was a Darknet Diaries episode about the researcher who first investigated the problem. The episode was very thorough, I liked it a lot. I also don't remember the name of the episode, so I guess this comment is kinda useless

I second this

Also dumbest idea, have you tried a brand new spool of PLA? Just to exclude an incredibly wet filament. Because that can cause all sorts of problems

Hello, I suggested heat creep in your last post, which didn't end up being the issue. I don't remember if anyone suggested it, but have you tried checking the bowden assembly, on the motor side? Whether the stepper works, or the gears wore down (I'm pointing towards this), or there are clogs somewhere in the mechanism, even some dust that accumulated where it shouldn't had. Or did you change settings like the current limit on the steppers? If that's controlled with a potentiometer on the main board, maybe it got turned down for some reason (if so, I'd try to understand why's that). I don't know how Klipper handles motor drivers where current limits are controlled in software, I know that Marlin has a dedicated submenu in the Configuration>Advanced Configuration. If you reflashed the firmware, maybe the settings where in the eeprom and did not get transfered over or got overwritten in the flashing process.

I remembered that on a couple different printers I had the same problem as you, and it came down to damaged/untightened nozzles (which you excluded already) or wore down gears or, on the printer I'm working on right now, too low current limits which made the stepper skip steps somewhat randomly

That's exactly how I wpuld test heat creep. Maybe that's not it

Since you've already excluded a damaged nozzle and other parts, I'm gonna suggest heatcreep.

Maybe the extruder fan broke, so heat creeping up the extruder and melting the filament before it should?

This is a picture etho himself published, it's included his hermitcraft s10 e5 video, when he talks about his setup with the other hermits for the ranking mumbo organized. Here

I'm a bit rusty on selenium, but iirc there should be some command line argument to select the profile on launch. You could try that, i remember there's a way to specify command line arguments from selenium

The lid of the pot. Keeping the pot covered makes the water boil quicker

I'd like one! :) DM Sent.

I'd like one! :) DM Sent.

Nekogram X?

Ah, good old PlarformIO

Also depending on the architecture on the computer, this might be the only possible solution. I have a samsung m2020 series printer connected to a Pi to share it on the local network. Samsung Unified Driver does not work on armhf as it is only compiled for x86/x64, but splix can be compiled on armhf and it actually supports my printer

Others are saying to switch to the specific driver for your printer. If you do not want to go proprietary you could try and see if your printer is supported by the splix driver

What did you do to keep the card cool?

Poorly. Had 3d printer a fan duct and ducted a fan to the back of the case, to push-pull air. Those cards are made to work in server racks, with really high pressure and high speed fans, not really for a desktop. I have seen people on reddit mounting a modified 3070ti cooler on the tesla, but I had not had a chanve to try that.

And was it loud?

Yes, depending on the fans used. But high speed fans are generally loud. Also lots of vibrations, but that qas mostly fault of my incredibly sketchy setup

I used to do this with a nvidia tesla m40 and a radeon hd6850. Used the tesla for rendering amd encoding, the radeon for display output. I just followed the arch wiki pages related to nvidia optimus laptops and PRIME offloading. It worked but was a bit junk, in some other tests I did, when the radeon was used to render the DE, I had a much more fluid experience, offloading the rendering seems to lead to some micro stutters every now and then that make it a not so fluid experience. But ymmv I guess. Also I haven't had any luck with two separate nvidia cards, but that was probably due to driver version mismatch between the two cards

Ok, thanks

What's up with the in-app tracking? Is it just related to likes/dislikes?

I also just saw how they places their vbat and gnd on your main chip, I don’t think I would put any there either unless it asks for it.

What are you exactly saying here? You wouldn't put vias behind those pads?

Just saw your comment on the PCB size. In that case I would definitely go with a four layer board to avoid issues (heat and signal integrity).

Yep, I've also done some tests with ground planes on both layers, and it comes out sparse to say the least. Problem is, I have never made a 4-layer board, do you have any resources on those I can learn from? Are there any particular things to pay attention to? How do I "organize" layers? Which ones do I use for traces and which ones for power planes?

If you have pics of the schematic, I can take a deeper look at it. Cool project, first time I see that chip.

Here's a quick screenshot, in the original post I linked the git repo which includes all kicad files. It's rough atm, I haven't made it look good yet

0.8mm (size) / 0.4mm (hole) vias

Trace width depends on the net class, I calculated them using kicad's built-in calculator

• 0.127mm (minimum by jlcpcb) for signals and low current
• 0.15mm for motors (the max. current the driver can source is 400mA per channel, I overspec'ed them since my motors will absorb current in the order of 100mA)
• 0.3mm for power supply

I also need that the PCB stays as small as possibile, so having components on both sides is a necessity for me

S4

Using official lineageos+microg here. I had android system intelligence installed and i noticed when it recognized a song while watching tv. I was able to uninstall it via aurora store

I am sorry for double/triple posting. I was trying to cross post from !doctorwho@lemmy.world but cross posting is broken from the Eternity android app. This time I used the webui

I'll keep an eye on those, thank you

I really despise the use of the mouse, in some way it just feels somewhat wrong, especially the need to constantly move one hand between the mouse and the keyboard. Also I'm way faster at typing that I am pointing and clicking around looking for the right button to press. Terminal commands offer a simple and expressive way to interact with the computer.

What do you use now?

My dad has an ender 3 which occasionally does this. I haven't been able to find anything regarding the problem. Could you elaborate on this hot end fix?

Is this it? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3203831

How do you find yourself with wayland on it? Is it easy to switch between workspaces, or send windows to other workspaces? How about the onscreen-keyboard? I'm currently wondering whether to move from i3 to hyprland on my thinlpad yoga 370. I set uo a lot of gestures with touchegg on i3, I'm afraid of missing them if moving to wayland.

I bought a used Thinkpad Yoga 370, with a 7th gen i5, 8gb ram (single slot sodimm, which is a real pity) which I later upgraded to 16gb. Also the pen slots right into the frame of the laptop for storage and recharging, so you don't need to carry it around separately, though it may be a bit small for some people. I personally find myself comfortable with it.

I went right to arch (btw), as I was on both on my old laptop and my desktop, the archwiki has a page dedicated to this laptop, listing which features work and which don't. If you mess around with the fingerprint sensor and python-validity package you can get it to work, but I don't use it anyway. The rest works out of the box, though I have never tried the modem (my version lacks antennas and the module) and the express card reader.

I use xournal++ to take notes in uni. I tend to make a huge journal for each course (easily 150+ pages at the end of the semester), so make sure to disable autosaves as sometimes they hang up the whole program while trying to save.

At first I was using gnome on wayland, which has pretty good palm rejection, autorotation and sensor/webcam remapping and works great out of the box in general. Later moved to i3 on xorg as somehow a tiling window manager made more sense to me on a touchscreen device (android is kind of a tiling window manager if you think about it). Currently on i3, using touchegg to use custom gestures for the WM and specific programs. I am currently wondering whether to move to hyprland as I noticed slightly worse palm rejection on i3/xorg when compared to gnome/wayland (still very usable though), but I still want a tiling window manager and customizable touch gestures, which Hyprland should have a plugin for.

I general I find this laptop great, the x1 yoga should be good too, but I have never tried it on linux.

That was the Motorola Moto Z series for ya, had pins on the back for modules to be attached. Some modules were a battery pack, jbl speaker, a projector, and even a little printer to have the phone work like a polaroid

A raspberry pi running pihole does not need a monitor. Pihole itself only requires a lan connection (wifi should also work, check pihole docs for that) and only uses the monitor to show your ip address at the start. You can use any monitor with the pi, you don't need a dedicated one

Simply don't. Powering the RPi via the gpio is possible but bypasses all protections (over/reverse voltage, shortcircuit). Do it only if you know for sure that those things won't happen. Otherwise, know that you might kill your pi.

If you still wanna do it, look for ground (gnd) and a +5v rail on the ender 3 board. The here is the rpi gpio pinout, you have to connect gnd to gnd of the board and +5v to the +5v rail on the board.

I guess a good compromise would be to connect the +5v coming from the ender 3 to the proper pads/vias under the microusb cable on the pi, that way you would still have all the protections in place on the pi. But I have never done that, so don't quote me on that.