That's a great idea. See if you can interact with it at all. Printrun is another option if you don't want to set up Octoprint.

This turned out to be something on my end, but leads to a question about how the behavior of the app should be.

I did some digging, turned out this was due to some certs or something on my home router that didn't like sh.itjust.works. The web interface shows a lemmy.world mirror of the image, but Boost shows the image from the original post on sh.itjust.works.

The question is, should the app be pulling from the original source? If that source instance goes down, Boost won't be able to show it anymore. That seems against the philosophy of the Fediverse (and the actual Lemmy website shows the mirror).

Thanks for checking. I thought maybe it was my choice of theming or some weird state I've confused the app in, so I cleared the data in the app but the problem persists.

Yup, you're right, good catch 🙂

You need to report two numbers for a classifier, though. I can create a classifier that catches all cases of autism just by saying that everybody has autism. You also need a false positive rate.

Depends on where you live. I live in a desert where the humidity is often <10% and have left PETG and PLA rolls out for several weeks at a time with no issues. With nylons I've been a bit more careful, though I'm not sure I need to be.

What kind of climate do you live in?

Prusa machines come with phenomenal support, why not consult them directly?

+1 for Voron. I just finished up mine and am pleased with the results. Totally open source, modifiable, and unlike Prusa machines not based on a 5-year old design. (This is coming from somebody who loves the MK3S+ but was very disappointed with the MK4's marginal improvement and botch-job of a lunch)

That is an incredibly overgeneralized view of the situation. It's precisely this kind of polarization, and viewing everything in terms of black and white, that Putin and allies are reveling in.

Of course! link

Yup, totally. Klicky as a concept is great, but the original design was just bad. The Klicky parts I had were from a PIF provider, so I'm confident it wasn't a bad print job. Maybe Klicky NG fixes the issue, but to me the PCB is worth it.

Thanks!

I have to do a fine babystep here and there, but nothing major. I think it's mostly because I haven't done an actual offset calibration since changing to Klicky PCB, just kind of eyeballed it with a piece of paper.

Do you have the calibrate_z macro?

Edit: Moonraker says I've got 130 hours on it already. More than I thought!

Nice! I'm looking for a label maker for a similar setup. What do you recommend?

If you have a hardened nozzle and brass brush, it shouldn't be too abrasive. I've usually done that with my MK3S+ and never had issues.

On the cable, have you considered hot glue?

I have not, what a marvelous idea! Thanks!

With regard to Klicky, yup, I can get it to go through the whole QGL/bed mesh/Z-calibration process and get off a print I'd estimate about 50% of the time. It's mostly just consistency. I can probably increase the tolerances in printer.cfg, but I figure the defaults are what they are for a reason. I had trouble with assembling Klicky due to tolerances of the printed parts, and some of my magnets weren't perfectly flush. I suspect (hope) this is causing some wobbles in the probe itself.

Two different problems. First with y endstop, and not really an issue with the endstop, more the cables. They keep wiggling out of the nook you're supposed to stuff them into, and that causes them to get pinched when homing. The cable is just thick enough that it prevents the endstop from triggering.

The other is Klicky, I get wildly different readings to the point where it just gives up because the tolerance was exceeded too many times. I've checked for loose screws, belt tension, etc., can't find anything obvious. I've basically given up on Klicky and ordered a Klicky PCB kit, hopefully that will fix it.

That's my guess with the 3kg, too. Probably need a holder with bearings. I plan on printing this holder (https://www.printables.com/model/513779-voron-horizontal-filament-spool-holder-w-608-beari) because I need something a little more forward based, I'll let you know how it goes.

Thanks!

Yup, still much to do on mine too. Bed clips, skirts, fans, led mounts, camera mounts... It's fun to tinker some, but I'll be glad when it's all calibrated and ready to print reliably. I've got some issues here and there with endstops I need to figure out.

It's a Voron 2.4r2! Bed size is 350mm square. I built it from the LDO motors kit. You can find them lots of places. Here's a link to LDO resellers (https://docs.ldomotors.com/voron/LDO_Voron_Distributors). There are other kit options, too, including West3D and Fysetc.

Nice! Too bad they don't make transparent cardboard 😂

Thanks! I agree, the wiring actually seems like one of the easiest things.

Thanks for the suggestion. I kind of wondered why they decided to put the split right where the screw makes contact.

Yup! Posted a pic about a week ago. I wanted to post an updated pic of my progress but lemmy.world is choking on image uploads for me right now.

This is the first week I've been working on it, I'd estimate maybe 10 hours so far, most of it last Sunday.

Subbed!

Are you aware of anything like this for text messages? Google messages filters a lot, but a) it's not perfect, and b) it's app specific

Woah I never knew they'd eat anything other than seeds

I'm running Immich on an Odroid N2 and it's great! https://immich.app/

Oh man, Hobbes's face on that last panel made me laugh so hard!

Impeccable taste ;-)

Weirdest one I've tried is peanut butter. Needless to say I still have most of the bottle haha.

Glad to see another who likes Ghostlight! Most everybody else I've met thinks it's though.

Your first is always your favorite, so mine is The Robots of Death. Runners up: Nightmare of Eden, State of Decay, The War Games, Mawdryn Undead, Dragonfire

It definitely won't be a perfect match what you see on your monitor vs in real life. Fact is, rgb color rendering can't capture the full spectrum of light that actually reflects from objects.

But, it should give a good ballpark estimate of what a filament should look like, or relative colors. The site owner does all of the color determination himself, so variability from person to person/camera to camera should be one that's taken out of the equation.

The part that you're referring to is a little closer to the color as stands by itself. I also had wipe to infill turned on and I'm not entirely convinced that the "opaque red" is really 100% opaque.

I had to search for a while to find a good red that I liked. I really want to try Dragon Red by Materio3D (link) but they've been out of stock for a while, even on Voxel Factory's website so I think they've stopped making it.

I printed on a MK3S+ with MMU2s. The modifications I mentioned in my other comment have made it rock solid, a couple thousand color changes on this print without issue.

Just about finished with Mistborn: The Final Empire on GraphicAudio. I wasn't too interested in the plotlines at the balls, but find the parts about allomancy fascinating.

Yup, I like that stuff, too. I just printed some shelf brackets in Hatchbox wood PLA. Lots of stringing but they look pretty sweet after post processing.

What size nozzle do you use with it? I've seen lots of suggestions for 0.6mm and up, but I've been able to print with a 0.4mm without clogs.

That's another new one for me. Do you have an enclosure? Thanks for sharing!

I like Paramount 3D for their colors, too. Lots of places have the "basic" colors, but Paramount has a lot of interesting mixes (and names!)

Never printed ABS, but that's just because I don't have an enclosure.

Interesting, that's a new one to me. I'll have to check it out.

Wow, cool! Did you design the electronics as well?

If somebody judges you for trying to protect yourself from skin cancer, dehydration, and hurt joints, then they're the ones with the problem.

It's been a while since I set it up, but I think this was all of the changes. I did these mods while I was setting up and it was never fiddly for me like it is for a lot of folks.

PTFE clip: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3587022

Opened up selector: https://www.printables.com/model/103029-mmu2s-selector-with-mods-remixed-to-refine-filamen

RMU inspired buffer: https://www.printables.com/model/77054-mmu2s-buffer-inspired-by-rmu-buffer

PTFE coupler: https://www.printables.com/model/6605-prusa-mmu2-ptfe-holder-m10-passthrough-adapter

Larger PTFE tubing (3mm ID)